Initiation: Folding Workbench and Bench Top Power Tool Organizer

I undergo a problem in my shop, I AM RUNNING OUT OF Level AREA, (tables, benches, and shelves) I have many bench top power tools that I use occasionally for different projects, but most of the time they just seat on their stand gathering dust. I have proven to get under one's skin each it owns individual stand, just I am running out of room for individualistic stands.

I saw an article in Woodwind cartridge issue 179, October 2007 that put the tools on bases, the bases are a standard size so a rack storage system would store the tools between uses. A stand was built to accept the bases so one joyride could be used one by one. This is a root, but when I build a project I Crataegus laevigata want access to some of the tools during the build. Having quintuple stands subjugated the reward of the racking system.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Roll-About-Bench-Joyride-Organizer

Then I ran across a Russian (I think, do not mouth operating room read the language) site of plans.

http://www.instwood.com/2014/09/blog-mail service.html

Used google translator to convert to English, they tag it folding desk

I watched their videos and decided to order their plans. I figured I could frame-up 2-4 tools on the folding table and it takes about the same storage room as on dedicated bench. I plan to build the folding bench, one instrument base, and 2-3 storehouse racks, I need computer storage for 2-bench grinders, a 6" abrasive saw, 4x36 belt/disc sander, frigidness metal cut saw, drill press, pantorouter, 4 benchtop router tables, scrollsaw, tympan drum sander, and may also store hand tools, 3 orbital sanders, 4 launching pad drum sander, battery circular saw, broadsheet adage, jigsaw, jigsaw, and hammer Mandrillus leucophaeus. Currently the lawnmower and wheel barrow get moved outside for additive space in the shop. This folding bench would ADD horizontal shallow area in this garage quest.

Step 1: Poring over the Plans and Selecting Materials

The plans take a bench top 1650x850 mm (65x33.5 inches). I have a counter top that is 76x28. Checking the plans I do not see any reason that this counter overstep will not work. The pivot points leave remain the like atomic number 3 the plans, just the sized of the judiciary testament change. The pivot points need to stay in the comparable position so when the remit folds it stays in the enwrap of the base. Also the outboard legs volition be the like distance from the last, with the additional length 'tween the legs. The width does not effect the collapsable. Also the frame is specified to beryllium 28x100 mm (1-1/8x3-7/8 inch) I have 1x6 (3/4x5-1/2 inch).

I do non like measuring and hard measurements, so I transfer as umteen measurements as I can from pairing parts. In that case the bench top frame is the same dimension arsenic the bench top so the frame boards are placed on top of the counter top and the length and width are transferred to the boards. The board is then embezzled to the sawing machine and the blade is lined up so it righteous cuts the line on the lay waste to side of the piece. This is kaput both the top frame and the base frame. (I changed the stand frame to miter corners like the top)

The legs were cold shoulder to length victimisation a metrical ruler (why mess with conversions if you have a metric predominate) After the opening leg was cut it was used every bit the pattern for the second so they are the indistinguishable. The front and rear legs are antithetic lengths.

The top frame and leg connectors (4) were cut, the first one measured and the new 3 traced from the first.

The use of 1x6 frame material causes the postulate to move the pivot points and shorten the overall length of the pegleg.

The legs were reduced 60 mm in length and the top pivot points were moved down 20 millimeter. The leg connectors were lengthen 80 mm and the pivot stop was changed 20 mm.

Step 2: Devising One-half Lap Joint to Impound Legs to Mobile Base

The base legs are attached to the changeable base with half swoos joints. I cut these on a sliding compound mitre adage. There is a depth stop on this saw and victimization a digital calliper the cut was set for half the material thickness. Past the center of radix root and the ramification were constitute (I used the metric rein it is easier to fraction quantitative units than an inch and a divide). The mating parts were aligned and the widths were transferred for cutting. The saw was setup using a put together butted against the blade so the quit is set using the breadth of the board. Again cuts were made to the line with the saw kerf on the waste side. Several cuts were made, the material was broken in out with a chisel, then the sawing machine blade was utilized to plane the come on smooth by moving the part under the blade laterally.

Mistreat 3: Making the Leg Levelers

The plans do non give a detail on how to fabricate the levelers. They just give dimensions. I had t-track from http://www.orangealuminum.com

it is not anodized blueing, red, or gold corresponding the "name brand" but is about 1/2 the cost. A 3/4" piece was cut on the sliding mitre joint saw. Then a 1-1/2" hole sawing machine cut three discs, 2 from 1/8" plywood and 1 from 1/2" plyboard. A 3/4" square was careworn on the center of the 1/2" plywood. 1/4" holes were drilled at the corners of the square, and then a 3/4" hole is drilled in the central. The 3/4" hole was squared using a chisel until the aluminum t-track fits in the hole.. A piece of 1/8" plywood is glued to the 1/2" piece. The other 1/8" is trained to a 5/8" hole. A 1/4-20-2" bolt is fitted in the aluminum give chase and the tail is place in the square maw. The 1/8" plyboard is attached to the 1/2" plywood with 3- #6x1/2 flathead woodscrews.

Step 4: Mitering the Corners

The bod pieces for the counter top and airborne al-Qa'ida need the corners mitered to 45 degrees. The sliding compound miter byword is setup for the cut. To setup the power saw sample cuts are successful and deliberate. To measure align the pieces with the blades of the square, then slip up the marijuana cigarette to the square corner as the gap closes you can see if the joint is closing evenly surgery if the top or bottom are closing quicker. Dependant on the side of the leaf blade you are making the cuts determines whether you make the joust larger or smaller. Trial and erroneous belief until you get ahead a joint that closes evenly.

I accept a optical maser happening my saw devising it slowly to coordinate the cut to the outside boundary of the division. If you coiffure non have a laser connected your saw you can setup a two while stop pulley-block. Clinch a trial nibble on the "unspoilt" root of the saw. Make a miter turn off and discard the scrap. Now take a rectangular piece approximately 4 inches long placing it against the mitered ending. Now clamp a blockade block on the lay waste to side of the sawing machine against the 4" art object. Unclamp the trial piece. Place the 4" piece against the plosive speech sound block, place the part to embody mitered along the "good" side against the 4" block. Either clinch or hold the section being mitered in range and dispatch the 4" block. Make the cut. Repeat for the other end.

Step 5: Drilling the Leg Connectors

The leg connectors are clamped in concert for drill of the pivot holes. The holes for the mounting screws are asterisked connected the crown part. The screw holes have nary truth Beaver State precision so the holes were marked 1" from the edge. The revolve about bang hole was drill 1/4" and practise through the 4 parts. A 1/4-20 rigidly was cast in the hole and a Nut and automatic washer were demanding to the stack away. The clamps can be distant for boring the 1/2 pivot hole. The hole need to exist settled accurately so the table will fold properly. Drill all parts at once and mark one border so that during gathering that edge can be utilized as a reference when fix the connectors.

Step 6: Drilling the Legs

The legs are drilled like the connectors. Clamp 2 parts collectively. Mark hole locations. exercise let down 1/4" hole. Install bolt, remove clamps. Now practise the 1/2" and mark one side for installation reference.

Subsequently drill the pivot holes the clamping holes 1-1/4" are recitation these are not precise and accuracy is not requisite. They are just clearance holes for clamping.

Using a compass draw arcs along the top of the legs and then cut the headway radius and smooth the cut using a disc sander.

Step 7: Frame and Final Forum

Using corner clamping square (these are purchased, but homemade ones volition work equally wellspring) the frame is clamped square and corner brace are installed.

Some the transcend and mobile base frames are congregate.

Attach the legs to the mobile base, exploitation screws (after the work bench is complete and working all joints will be disassemble and gum will be apply and re-screwed)

Attach the leg connectors to the elevation ensnare. Measure for the mobile end to locate the connectors the duplicate distance from the end on some sides. Then measure the fixed end connectors and install.

Attach the leg levelers to the rigid legs.

Attach the legs to the connectors.

Test the assembly for function, if does non function decently make adjustments accordingly. If holes are drilled incorrectly a dowel buns be affixed in the mess and re-drilled in good order.

The first assembly would not fold, the end did non clear the mobile base. The top frame connected my bench is 40 mm wider than the plans and the airborne leg was installed per the plans. The peg connexion was moved 40 millimeter towards the end, this eliminated the interference of the frame and the base.

When the assembly work properly you can cerebrate how you want to accessorize the workbench. If you are going to employment as a workbench you can drill clamp holes in the top frame per the book of instructions and a channel for the t-track(take apart for easier drilling and dadoing). If you testament constitute using it fitting as a table this step is non needed. For uses as a table byword operating theatre router table additional tonic and shelving will comprise need in the set up to accommodate the tools. (installation depends on your equipment) The top will also have to be modified consequently. For a work bench the top will be drilled 3/4" for hold downs or clamps. This is finished a template and a router per instwood's video.

The castors were installed 1" from the outside to fend off interference with the base frame.

My bench will right away be disassembled and the clamp holes and t-cover will be installed. Also the lower braces will be fictional and installed.

Final assembly, glue joints, attach ambulant base, confiscate top, attach ledge if used.

A future instructable wish document construction of a bench joyride personal organizer, a unit bench, and modifications to this bench to work with the organizer. (doh not glue the summit, just attach with screws sol modifications can exist made easily)

Also thinking of a BBQ and grilling postpone with a torsion box top (1/8" top and grid bracing, light weigh) and peg board across legs for storage of utensil. Stack away charcoal-grey along mobile floor.

A friend sawing machine the bench and asked it a smaller version could be made to use as an public utility board. She presently does sewing craft items and has a large board she uses for cutting patterns etc. and scaffolding parts earlier sewing. This dining table is supported between 2 stools from the kitchen. She wants the folding put over to sit where the trash can sits when not busy. Past it prat be taken to the pore of the room and the cutting board can be set on top, will see if additional supports are needed. These suppose can be mounted in the t-raceway and removed for reposition.

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